I think I vote for functionality over pretty any day. As you said, if it's not easy to navigate, why bother?

Happiness, however, is a listing for somone you don't like -- someone who thinks he's a hot-shit web designer -- on a site where people nominate the worst examples of what you described. And he's in the lead.

(No, it's not someone in fandom, but it was a definite giggle moment.)